Monday 21 May 2012

Northern Italy


Northern Italy
Explore the fashion of Milan, the mythology of Verona and the historical magnificence of Venice,
with Alexandra Hansen

There’s a reason over 43 million tourists visit Italy each year, and the North is as beautiful a region as any.  There’s so much to see and do in Italy, a country steeped in history and beauty, and don’t even get me started on the food! One could easily spend months traveling there, and just as long writing about it, which is why I’ve broken up Italy into regions; starting with the North.

Milan is not only the fashion capital, but also the financial and business centre of Italy. This wouldn’t mean anything too important for tourists, except that it’s more expensive than the rest of Italy so be prepared to budget! When arriving in the city it can be slightly disappointing as the fashion and the glamour doesn’t jump right out at you as one would expect. Take the time to wander around, visit the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade, with its beautiful glass dome roof and boutique shops, and the ‘Golden Quad’, where you won’t be able to afford to buy anything, but just watching the beautiful men and women flit in and out of Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana is a treat! Ladies note: The men here in their bespoke suits are reason in itself to come to Milan. The Duomo and Teatro alla Scala are definitely worth a look, but the most popular tourist attraction in the city is without a doubt Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Last Supper. NOTE: You can only get in to see it by appointment. I would love to be able to tell you how magnificent it was, but I had not a guide such as this and missed out! FYI it is located in Cenacolo Vinciano, so be sure to book in advance!

Verona, while not listed in the travel books as a must-see of Italy, was one of my favourite spots. As a bit of a self-proclaimed literature buff, I had long looked forward to the town that ol’ Bill Shakespeare used as inspiration for Two Gentlemen of Verona and more famously, Romeo and Juliet. Although Shakespeare had never actually been to Verona, it does have the small-town Italian charm that he was presumably looking for, and is not as tainted by the tourism industry as many other Italian cities. The people here were the nicest I came across, and the food and accommodation were not nearly as expensive as Milan. The tourism industry here, while nowhere near as big as nearby Venice, seems to exist solely as fodder for R&J fans. The town’s main (only?) source of attraction is the story, which, real or fake has resulted in a number of sights R&J fans such as myself can visit. Get your obligatory I’m-on-Juliet’s-balcony tourist photo (as I did-left) at Juliet’s Casa. I’m not sure the basis on which they know it was the Juliet’s house, but it was said to be owned by a ‘Capuletti’ family, and it has a balcony, so it must be, right?! Outside is the statue of Juliet whereby rubbing her right breast is said to bring luck in love, and inside is a museum containing costumes from Zafarelli’s film adaptation of the play, artwork, and interactive computerised ‘Letters to Juliet’. Apparently for centuries people have been writing letters to Juliet asking for advice or to grant them luck in their love-lives and relationships. This can be seen all over the house, with graffiti of two people’s names in love hearts all over the walls, written on dried pieces of chewing gum, and on padlocks chained to the gates. I was nice enough to pay homage to two of my best friends and their partners on the famed walls wishing them luck and longevity in their relationships…one got engaged two months later, and one broke up. So you be the judge! Other sites include Juliet’s tomb and Romeo’s house (which is a mere plaque on the wall and not really worth a visit if you ask me). Also worth a look is The Arena; the third largest Roman amphitheatre in existence.


Venice. Where does one begin with Venice? Breathtakingly beautiful and idyllic, it is one of the few places that really lives up to your expectations and the romanticism the Western world imposes on it. Made up of 117 islands, I had heard the canals smell something horrid in the summer, but I didn’t smell a thing. Beware, it is the worst city in the world to get lost in, the streets don’t really make sense, and you can’t merely follow the main canal as most of the buildings protrude into the canal and impede the continuation of the road. After taking a few hours at least to find our accommodation (there’s also various street names replicated three or four times on different islands just to confuse you further, and the suggestion after arriving by train to ‘just get a taxi’ was severely disheartened when we recalled the city was afloat) we just wandered for hours around the tiny streets and canals taking it all in. In terms of sight-seeing, the Doge’s Palace is worthwhile (and it’s worth forking out the extra cash for the VIP tour where you’re taken into the roof), and the area surrounding it, Piazza San Marco, is the main tourist area. The Bell Tower on the same square offers supreme views and a good history lesson on Venice and the various islands. The Venetians (they very readily tell you) were a very dominating force in their day, ruling half of the Mediterranean and subsequently the history in Venice is nearly as impressive as the city itself. Peggy Guggenheim’s house/museum is well worthwhile, featuring her grandest collections of work, and her grave. It is in Venice that I sampled the best pizza I’ve ever had in my life (and I’ve been to Naples which is said to be the best!) and ate the most expensive pasta I’ve ever had in my life. For all its splendour, one can only spend a few days in Venice due merely to the expense. Surpassing Milan as the most expensive city in Italy, don’t expect to get a full tummy for less than €20. It’s also a good idea to buddy up, since a gondola ride for 45 minutes will set you back €90-100, and they fit 5-6 passengers. It easy to see why thousands everyday fork out the cost however; as you’ll never have an experience quite like cruising down the canals of Venice in a gondola while being crooned by an Italian in the full Venetian regalia!

Thursday 10 May 2012

Homemade Monument Frames


Keeping a travel diary


 

Union Jack coasters!

Ah London, How I miss thee!

Handmade patchwork scarves for those chilly London winters!


Pick your favourite materials and get sewing!

Homemade Sleep Mask for the Crafty Traveler!


Pattern taken from Kelly Doust's 'The Crafty Minx'

"Why, the south of France, of course!"

With the Cannes film festival coming up this month, there’s no better time to experience what Brangelina raves about in Le sud de la France.  The French Riviera is a veritable array of glamour, history and relaxation from the ports of Marseille, to the pebbled beaches of Nice to the casinos of Monte Carlo.


Arriving in Marseille can be slightly disappointing; being a port-town there’s none of that ‘south of France’ glamour one expects. It’s steeped in history, you just have to look in the right places. Le Petit Train is a perhaps cliché, but worthwhile place to start, the biggest benefit being the miniature train takes saves your legs as it climbs the steep ascent to the Notre Dame - not the Notre Dame, of course, but Marseilles own miniature version. Perched at the highest point of Marseille, topped with a golden virgin, you can see the church for miles, and the view once up there is spectacular.
The highlight for any literature and/or film buff is the island of Château d’If, where Alexandre Dumas’ 1844 novel The Count of Monte Christo was set. Take a tour over the island and through the cells of one of the world’s most famous prisons. One of Marseille’s highlights; the macaroons are some of the best you’ll ever have.


Take a bus or a train to Cannes – unless you’re Brangelina, then charter a helicopter. For sight-seeing, you really don’t need more than a day in Cannes, a city that comes to life once a year for the international film festival. Visit the main auditorium, it’s none too exciting not surrounded by a plethora of celebs and beautiful people however. Just wandering around Cannes is a treat – the quiche is spectacular, and there’s a lovely assortment of boutique shops and restaurants to explore. A short ferry ride away is the south of France’s other infamous prison island Sainte Marguerite, of The Man in The Iron Mask fame. Legend has it that the King Louis XIV had an illegitimate brother whom he kept locked up in prison for the entirety of his life hidden behind an iron mask. The identity of the prisoner has never been proven, but it is the subject of many a film and novel, the most famous being Alexandre Dumas’ 1847 novel of the same name (or for Leo Dicaprio lovers such as myself, the 1998 film).  Sainte Marguerite also has a lovely little beach if you fancy a paddle; so bring your swimmers.

For some culture, and a bit of a party, there’s no place like Nice. Museums a ‘plenty, and some great night spots, it’s hard to have a bad time in Nice. Aussies beware – the beaches are pebbles, but there’s so much to do in Nice you probably won’t have time to laze on the beach anyway! The museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is a must-see where Warhol isn’t even the star attraction, and visit one of Nice’s amazing perfume factories for a   lovely (albeit expensive) souvenir, famous of the region. The fresh fruit and flower market which runs every day is a concoction of scents and colours to tantilise your taste buds. The berries will be the best you’ve ever tasted – guaranteed, and there’s cheese and marzipan galore, so have yourself a picnic! Also keep an eye out for ice-cream vendors on the waterfront; if you’re lucky they serve you your frozen sweet as a carefully carved rose. Wayne’s and Bulldog are great nightspots for some good music and some table-top dancing, and you can’t go past Villa St Exupery for accommodation, with beachside and garden locations, this was one of the best hostel groups I experienced in Europe. 

Hop a train to the autonomous region of Monaco, and visit Monte Carlo, famous for the casino, and the Grand Prix. Make sure you’re looking sharp to enter the most famous casino in the world, where cars that aren’t Ferraris and real noses are few and far between.  Entrance to the floor of the casino is 10 euro, but worth it just for a peek, and I’d hate to even ask what the minimum bet would be at one of the tables.  Grab a brie baguette and wander around and marvel at the wealth in Monte Carlo.  The boats are spectacular, as are the villas complete with rooftop soiree gardens – how the other half live!

Not far along the Riviera are a couple of lovely little beach spots definitely worth a look; Cap d’Ail and Ville Franche, where you’ll find sand, and few tourists. Keep an eye out for the beautiful naturally occurring coloured glass in the sand at these spots!